Recently, we’ve noticed our male clients becoming more experimental with length and weight lines in their haircuts.
This has been driven by an increased desire for something unique and bespoke (rather than looking like everyone else), which makes autumn/winter 2014 all about ‘you’.
In order to offer you some inspiration on your next cut, here is a breakdown of how I would create some of the most popular hairstyles, as well as possible adjustments you can make to create a more individual look.
All of these hairstyles can be mixed up and adjusted to your particular needs and/or hair type, and some of them can even be worn if your hair is receding, too:
This is a very modern, versatile haircut that can be worn in a variety of ways.
Here, the back and sides have been clippered on a number one grade, which is nice and tight to expose the scalp. We can see from the image that the hair is faded below the curve of the head; this is perfect for guys with longer face shapes as it helps balance their features. If you wanted, the hair could be clippered higher into the curve of the head to produce a much more dramatic look.
The hair has been point cut with scissors through the top to accentuate texture and movement. Once dried, the style has probably been texturised further by point cutting deeper into the hair, creating a ‘shattered’ finish.
We can also see that some colour has been added to the front of the haircut; most likely achieved by weaving sections into foil and applying some bleach onto the ends. Alternatively, it could be coloured freehand as it’s not too structured. Overall, it adds to the individual feel we are striving for and serves to emphasise texture, which was clearly the focus of this cut.
To style, try scrunching American Crew Defining Paste or Fudge Matte Head into the roots through the top to create the movement. For a variation on the look, the front section could be sculpted into a pompadour shape, which would expose more of the colour.
For a more dramatic aesthetic, try straightening the ends and pulling the front panel down to create a fuller fringe.
The
model in the image has got extremely thick hair, but this hairstyle
actually suits a wide variety of hair types and face shapes.
We can see that the hair has again been clippered tight using a number one grade through the back and sides (a huge trend currently), while the top has been taken quite high into the crown area and left thick and chunky, creating almost a solid block effect.
The sides have been connected/blended using the clipper over comb technique or by simply increasing the clipper guard lengths. As we need the top to look as thick as possible, I would blunt cut this section and maybe point cut a little towards the front to give some support to the pompadour/quiff fringe.
If your crown has a tendency to stick up when it’s cut, there are two things you can do: leave more length around the area as the weight will pull it down, or take the clippers higher and the crown area shorter – this will help maintain the balance of the haircut as the front needs to look longer than the back for the style to work.
Once dry, use a styling product that isn’t too heavy or greasy – something like Kevin Murphy Super Goo or Men-U Muscle Fibre Paste would be ideal. Even though we can’t see much texture in this hairstyle, work the product into the root area and then smooth the hair into shape.
This
is a very popular, current haircut. We can see that the sides have been
taken even shorter than in the previous two hairstyles; this is classed
as a skin fade, where the hair pretty much disappears into the hairline.
As the model has a fairly long face shape, the stylist has chosen not to take the fade too high into the curve of the head. This can all be discussed in your consultation, but it’s important to bear in mind that it will create an extreme aesthetic if the clipper work goes any higher.
The hair has been point cut short around the crown this time, then, working forward, over directed and pulled back towards the crown to maintain length at the front. As you can see at the temples, the stylist has chosen to leave a small amount of hair, which is a great way of hiding a receding hairline while strengthening the shape around the front.
Again, we can see this model has had some colour applied to his hair – definitely something worth considering if you’re looking to set yourself apart from the crowd this season. This colouring has been done with foils and the hair would have been weaved to create a subtle yet impactful effect.
If you are considering a similar style, you could always create a bolder look by having thicker weaves or going lighter in colour. On the other hand, if you wanted to be slightly more discreet, opt for finer weaves or use a darker colour.
Create the look by firstly working Kevin Murphy Powder Puff or L’Oreal Tecni.Art Super Dust/Texture Dust into the front section to support the style. Finish by applying L’Oreal Depolish, Kevin Murphy Super Goo or American Crew Molding Clay, working it through from root to tip.
If your hair is finer in texture, you may need to use a hairspray (try Fudge Skyscraper) to hold this style. Don’t worry about using too many different hair products – so long as you’re not too heavy handed they all serve a purpose in supporting and moulding this look.
We’ve seen a huge increase in the number of men asking for undercuts at the salon recently. This is down to guys choosing to grow more length through the top but still wanting to keep the sides nice and tight.
The above images both have quite a lot of length through the top, which can be hard for people to get used to – I would only suggest growing your hair like this if you’re willing to spend time styling it each day.
This style can suit many face shapes, but try to avoid letting it get too wide at the sides as it will make your hair (and face) look rounder. In the images above, the stylist has clippered the sides the same length, using a grade one up to where the undercut ends.
The hair through the top section can then either be razored (great for taking weight out of thicker hair) or point cut with scissors to create texture.
Alternatively, if all the hair was cut the same length, it could simply be washed and then worn in a louche topknot – another trending hairstyle for 2014 – on casual days.
To create the more dramatic side parting/quiff, blow dry the hair using a round/be-bop brush. To support the shape at the front, apply a root booster and then some hairspray to keep it in place.
If your hair looks or feels a little dry, work a small amount of L’Oreal Mythic Oil in before blow drying. To finish, use Kevin Murphy Undressed or Aveda Control Paste to style.
This is actually quite a low maintenance haircut. If you wanted to grow the top, you would only need to get the back and sides done every few weeks to keep it looking sharp.
This
image shows just how extreme these type of hairstyles can get, and I
personally think they look great with more length on top.
Here the back and sides have been clippered to a skin fade. The weight line is pretty heavy on this model (where the hair ends and clippering starts) and has been created by using the clipper over comb technique.
This is an excellent look for guys with naturally wavy or curly hair, with the hairstyle all about showing off movement in the cut. It’s also perfect for men with unruly crowns as we can see there is still a lot of length (and therefore weight) around this area to keep it under control.
The heavy weight line on the side, combined with the tight clippered edges, gives this haircut good contrast from top to bottom.
The top section has been razored or point cut deep into the hair to separate and accentuate the movement.
To achieve a similar aesthetic, try blow drying Kevin Murphy Anti Gravity or L’Oreal’s Tecni.Art Scruff Me into the hair. As we are looking to create a more natural, rough and ready feel, scrunch in some Kevin Murphy Gritty Business and style with your fingers for a matte, lived in finish.
This has been driven by an increased desire for something unique and bespoke (rather than looking like everyone else), which makes autumn/winter 2014 all about ‘you’.
In order to offer you some inspiration on your next cut, here is a breakdown of how I would create some of the most popular hairstyles, as well as possible adjustments you can make to create a more individual look.
All of these hairstyles can be mixed up and adjusted to your particular needs and/or hair type, and some of them can even be worn if your hair is receding, too:
1. Modern Short Back & Sides
This is a very modern, versatile haircut that can be worn in a variety of ways.Here, the back and sides have been clippered on a number one grade, which is nice and tight to expose the scalp. We can see from the image that the hair is faded below the curve of the head; this is perfect for guys with longer face shapes as it helps balance their features. If you wanted, the hair could be clippered higher into the curve of the head to produce a much more dramatic look.
The hair has been point cut with scissors through the top to accentuate texture and movement. Once dried, the style has probably been texturised further by point cutting deeper into the hair, creating a ‘shattered’ finish.
We can also see that some colour has been added to the front of the haircut; most likely achieved by weaving sections into foil and applying some bleach onto the ends. Alternatively, it could be coloured freehand as it’s not too structured. Overall, it adds to the individual feel we are striving for and serves to emphasise texture, which was clearly the focus of this cut.
Alternative Looks
How To Style
To create the look, apply Kevin Murphy Motion Lotion or American Crew Curl Construct to damp hair and blow dry on a high heat/low speed setting – this will ensure your hair doesn’t become too fluffy.
To style, try scrunching American Crew Defining Paste or Fudge Matte Head into the roots through the top to create the movement. For a variation on the look, the front section could be sculpted into a pompadour shape, which would expose more of the colour.
For a more dramatic aesthetic, try straightening the ends and pulling the front panel down to create a fuller fringe.
- Kevin Murphy Motion Lotion
- American Crew Crew Curl Construct 125ml
- American Crew Defining Paste 85g
- Fudge Matte Hed
- Babyliss Pro Gt Ionic Ii Dryer 2000w
- Ghd Iv Mini For Men
2. Dramatic Blunt Cut
The
model in the image has got extremely thick hair, but this hairstyle
actually suits a wide variety of hair types and face shapes.We can see that the hair has again been clippered tight using a number one grade through the back and sides (a huge trend currently), while the top has been taken quite high into the crown area and left thick and chunky, creating almost a solid block effect.
The sides have been connected/blended using the clipper over comb technique or by simply increasing the clipper guard lengths. As we need the top to look as thick as possible, I would blunt cut this section and maybe point cut a little towards the front to give some support to the pompadour/quiff fringe.
If your crown has a tendency to stick up when it’s cut, there are two things you can do: leave more length around the area as the weight will pull it down, or take the clippers higher and the crown area shorter – this will help maintain the balance of the haircut as the front needs to look longer than the back for the style to work.
Alternative Looks
How To Style
To style, apply American Crew Ultramatte/Medium Hold Gel or Kevin Murphy Hair Resort to control the volume when blow drying.Once dry, use a styling product that isn’t too heavy or greasy – something like Kevin Murphy Super Goo or Men-U Muscle Fibre Paste would be ideal. Even though we can’t see much texture in this hairstyle, work the product into the root area and then smooth the hair into shape.
- American Crew Ultramatte 100ml
- American Crew Spray Gel 237ml
- Kevin Murphy Super Goo
- Men-u Muscle Fibre Paste 100ml
- Remington D5210 Pro-air Dryer
- 7t Fine Teeth Pocket Comb Kent Brushes
3. The Skin Fade
This
is a very popular, current haircut. We can see that the sides have been
taken even shorter than in the previous two hairstyles; this is classed
as a skin fade, where the hair pretty much disappears into the hairline.As the model has a fairly long face shape, the stylist has chosen not to take the fade too high into the curve of the head. This can all be discussed in your consultation, but it’s important to bear in mind that it will create an extreme aesthetic if the clipper work goes any higher.
The hair has been point cut short around the crown this time, then, working forward, over directed and pulled back towards the crown to maintain length at the front. As you can see at the temples, the stylist has chosen to leave a small amount of hair, which is a great way of hiding a receding hairline while strengthening the shape around the front.
Again, we can see this model has had some colour applied to his hair – definitely something worth considering if you’re looking to set yourself apart from the crowd this season. This colouring has been done with foils and the hair would have been weaved to create a subtle yet impactful effect.
If you are considering a similar style, you could always create a bolder look by having thicker weaves or going lighter in colour. On the other hand, if you wanted to be slightly more discreet, opt for finer weaves or use a darker colour.
Alternative Looks
How To Style
Start by blow drying L’Oreal Tecni.Art Beach Waves, American Crew Boost Cream or Kevin Murphy Hair Resort Spray into the hair to create texture and separation. When blow drying use your fingers to pull the hair up, and then push it back to give it a natural wavy finish.Create the look by firstly working Kevin Murphy Powder Puff or L’Oreal Tecni.Art Super Dust/Texture Dust into the front section to support the style. Finish by applying L’Oreal Depolish, Kevin Murphy Super Goo or American Crew Molding Clay, working it through from root to tip.
If your hair is finer in texture, you may need to use a hairspray (try Fudge Skyscraper) to hold this style. Don’t worry about using too many different hair products – so long as you’re not too heavy handed they all serve a purpose in supporting and moulding this look.
- Loreal Tec Ni Art Beach Waves
- American Crew Crew Boost Cream 125ml
- Kevin Murphy Hair Resort Spray
- Kevin Murphy Powder Puff
- Loreal Tec Ni Art Super Dust
- Fudge Unleaded Skyscraper Spray 70g
- Loreal Professionnel Depolish
- Kevin Murphy Super Goo
- American Crew Molding Clay 85g
4. The Undercut
We’ve seen a huge increase in the number of men asking for undercuts at the salon recently. This is down to guys choosing to grow more length through the top but still wanting to keep the sides nice and tight.
The above images both have quite a lot of length through the top, which can be hard for people to get used to – I would only suggest growing your hair like this if you’re willing to spend time styling it each day.
This style can suit many face shapes, but try to avoid letting it get too wide at the sides as it will make your hair (and face) look rounder. In the images above, the stylist has clippered the sides the same length, using a grade one up to where the undercut ends.
The hair through the top section can then either be razored (great for taking weight out of thicker hair) or point cut with scissors to create texture.
Alternative Looks
How To Style
There are multiple ways to style this cut. For instance, you could scrape it back with a wet look gel or pomade, such as American Crew Superglue or Mr Natty’s Pomade, to produce a very contemporary, slick finish.Alternatively, if all the hair was cut the same length, it could simply be washed and then worn in a louche topknot – another trending hairstyle for 2014 – on casual days.
To create the more dramatic side parting/quiff, blow dry the hair using a round/be-bop brush. To support the shape at the front, apply a root booster and then some hairspray to keep it in place.
If your hair looks or feels a little dry, work a small amount of L’Oreal Mythic Oil in before blow drying. To finish, use Kevin Murphy Undressed or Aveda Control Paste to style.
This is actually quite a low maintenance haircut. If you wanted to grow the top, you would only need to get the back and sides done every few weeks to keep it looking sharp.
- American Crew Superglue 100ml
- Pomade Wax Mr Natty
- Denman Be-bop Massager
- Loreal Professionnel Mythic Oil 125ml
- Aveda Control Paste 50ml
- Kevin Murphy Undressed
5. The Contrast Weight Line
This
image shows just how extreme these type of hairstyles can get, and I
personally think they look great with more length on top.Here the back and sides have been clippered to a skin fade. The weight line is pretty heavy on this model (where the hair ends and clippering starts) and has been created by using the clipper over comb technique.
This is an excellent look for guys with naturally wavy or curly hair, with the hairstyle all about showing off movement in the cut. It’s also perfect for men with unruly crowns as we can see there is still a lot of length (and therefore weight) around this area to keep it under control.
The heavy weight line on the side, combined with the tight clippered edges, gives this haircut good contrast from top to bottom.
The top section has been razored or point cut deep into the hair to separate and accentuate the movement.
Alternative Looks
How To Style
This haircut would look just as good slicked back, similar to the previous undercut style, but here we are going for a more natural wave and dishevelled appearance, which is ideal for the colder months ahead.To achieve a similar aesthetic, try blow drying Kevin Murphy Anti Gravity or L’Oreal’s Tecni.Art Scruff Me into the hair. As we are looking to create a more natural, rough and ready feel, scrunch in some Kevin Murphy Gritty Business and style with your fingers for a matte, lived in finish.
- Tresemme Ultimate Hold Hairspray 500ml
- American Crew Boost Powder 10g
- Paul Mitchell Extra Body Daily Boost 250ml
- Parlux Powerlight 385 – Red
- Kevin Murphy Anti Gravity
- Kevin Murphy Gritty Business
- Clay Mr Natty
- Loreal Professionnel Tecni Art Scruff Me 150ml
- Bangstyle Volumizing Mousse 200 Ml
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