The Short-Sleeved Shirt : The Essentials Edit

Heads up, gentlemen – if you’re skimming through this article, then for the sake of your personal style and everyone else’s eyesight, read this paragraph carefully as most guys that try their hand at short-sleeved shirts end up getting the fit woefully wrong.

“When it comes to fit, think well-cut and not baggy,” says Sam Kershaw. “Sleeves should fall at least a few centimetres above the elbows and shouldn’t flap about like a pair of wings.”

You need to aim for something that’s slim but not tight. A short-sleeved shirt should flatter your form (as with any other casual or formal shirt) but not tightly hug your biceps, chest or neck. Boxier cuts (not sloppily oversized, mind) work too, but only if your wardrobe’s more Jil Sander than J.Crew.

Style

Equally important as sound fit is choosing the right style of short-sleeved shirt. For some unknown reason, many brands seem to treat this garment as a blank canvas on which to carry out their most bizarre, nightmarishly ugly creative experiments – think bad madras, garish slogans and lightning bolt motifs.

Needless to say, these are best sidestepped in favour of plain styles, contemporary florals, abstract camo and geometric prints. Understated neutral designs and subtle prints work well for teaming with classic looks made up of, say, chinos, boat shoes or sandals and a lightweight blazer. Louder prints and bolder block-colour styles, on the other hand, work best as the focal point of an otherwise pared-back look.

Details

Like their longer-sleeved counterparts, short-sleeved shirts can come equipped with a whole manner of different details, each with its own aesthetic advantages.

Rolled sleeves (with or without a button fastening) are a classic and look best on neutral or plain styles where their inclusion lends an otherwise fairly banal shirt a bit of interest.

Chest pockets are worth looking out for, too, but it’s probably best to avoid contrast pockets if you want keep your aesthetic timeless and sophisticated. If you’re looking to add a point of contrast, opt for something like a contrast placket or cuff instead.

For something with a slightly sportier feel, keep an eye out for styles with notched sleeves, similar to what you would find on a polo shirt.

How To Wear It

The key to wearing a short-sleeved shirt well is keeping the term ‘smart-casual’ front and centre. That means understanding that this wardrobe essential simply doesn’t sit well with other firmly casual pieces like distressed jeans or joggers. It’s not that it’s an out and out no-no, but it’s definitely tricky to get right.

For a fail-safe ensemble, team with chinos or smart trousers (or tailored shorts in warmer climes) and summer-ready footwear like boat shoes, sandals, loafers or minimal trainers.

Never tuck in. Never accessorise with a pocket square. And only wear open over a T-shirt if you’re an avid skateboarder. Button to the top if you want to look especially sharp, or leave one or two undone for a more relaxed effect.

And finally, as Kershaw notes: “never wear a short-sleeved shirt with a tie or any sort of neckwear, unless you actually are at the controls of a jumbo jet.”

Lookbook Inspiration: Plain Short-Sleeved Shirts

Lookbook Inspiration: Patterned Short-Sleeved

How To Wear: White-On-White

White Out

When it comes to style, sometimes less really is more. As much as bright colours and vivid prints have their place in every man’s warm-weather wardrobe, the power of taking a minimal approach should not be underestimated.

Much of the popularity of the white-on-white look is down to its clean, fresh and contemporary feel. Sometimes – while everyone else is busy making statements with eye-catching hues and clashing patterns – all it takes is a neutral ensemble to set a man apart from his peers.

But what’s the best way to approach all-white dressing? We turn to the runway and high street for inspiration on how to go white-on-white this season.

On The Runway

Lou Dalton set the tone at London Collections: Men – the British designer’s first outfit saw a sporty white bomber jacket teamed with a white top, tapered trousers and slip-on shoes.

She then followed this up with a crisp white shorts suit combined with a plain white T-shirt and bright white lace-ups:

Elsewhere, Louis Vuitton took a typically lavish approach by styling a luxurious double-breasted blazer in an off-white hue with a white roll neck, trousers and shoes. Pops of colour were added to the look through a pocket square and briefcase.

Many respected tailoring brands took a similar approach, with the likes of Burberry Prorsum, Dior Homme, Gieves & Hawkes, Etro, Gucci and Richard James all sending white or off-white suiting in a variety of cuts and shapes down the runway:

At the other end of the spectrum, Christopher

Ted Baker Spring/Summer 2015 Men’s Lookbook

Ted Baker Spring/Summer 2015 

Men’s Lookbook

5 Of The Best Niche Men’s Fragrances

Distinct And Original

These days, you shouldn’t have to rely on TV adverts or his and hers gift packs in department stores to guide you to a new fragrance.

When it comes to matters of the nose, the real story is in the bold scents being created by niche fragrance houses and perfumers, which are fast becoming favoured over mass-produced, designer alternatives.

For the style-conscious male, curating a distinct fragrance collection is just as important as developing an individual personal style. After all, these scents have the power to become a trademark of your ‘look’, which extends well beyond the clothes you wear to your hair, grooming and even manners.

Wear a boutique or rare fragrance and you send out a message that you value individuality, exclusivity and craftsmanship. In short, that you’re gentleman and a connoisseur.

To help guide you toward your new signature scent, we’ve identified five new high-end fragrances that are well worth a sniff this season:

Helmut Lang Cuiron

Helmut Lang fragrances quickly developed a cult following in the early noughties, becoming popular with fashion editors and students alike, until they were shelved in 2005, following the departure of the designer from his namesake house.

However, fans of the original scents rejoice – the series of three fragrances was re-released at the end of 2014, and each is inspiring a new audience with its delightfully minimal mix of ingredients.

Cuiron is our favourite with its cuttingly fresh scent – ideal for spring/summer.

In The Mix: Leather, bergamot, mandarin and pink peppercorn.

Available at Liberty, priced £120 for 100ml.

Laboratory Perfumes ‘Tonka’

UK fragrance brand Laboratory Perfumes

5 Popular Men’s Hairstyles For Spring/Summer 2015

Summer-Ready Hairstyles

Just as you’ll be making changes to your wardrobe to prep for the sunnier months ahead, it’s worthwhile assessing the practicality of your current hairstyle.

Is your hair an appropriate length for the warmer weather? Could you try a less fussy style that’ll take you from festivals to formal summer events? Read on for a rundown of this season’s most popular haircuts and how to make them work for you.

1. The Buzz Cut

Classic and unquestionably masculine, the buzz cut has been trending for a while now and remains the style most requested by my customers. Easily achieved, suitable for pretty much everyone and practical once it starts to heat up, it’s a sharp and hassle-free haircut.

Before taking the plunge, it’s worth having an honest conversation with your stylist about whether they think a buzz cut will suit your specific face shape. It tends to look best on strong, square face types, although it can be adapted to others by manipulating the length and grade used.

Next, you’ll need to decide on whether you want a uniform length all over (known as a ‘butch cut’) or a slight difference between the hair on the top of your head and at the back and sides (a crew cut or flattop). If you’re looking for a haircut that’s low maintenance but still versatile enough to work for both the office and days spent beachside, then the former comes up trumps.

Adjustments to consider with this style include leaving slightly more length through top, for a modern take on the French Crop, or opting for a skin fade on the sides, which will produce a dramatic, disconnected appearance that feels extremely contemporary:

How To Style

The only product a buzz cut requires is a heat

How To Wear RED in Spring/Summer 2015

Seeing Red

For such an unabashedly upfront colour, red can be deceptively difficult to wear. On the one hand, it’s bold and uncomplicated, and true reds will suit almost every skin tone. On the other side of the coin, the raw power of the hue can make potential wearers feel a little squeamish.

After all, red is the colour of passion and overt sensuality; of emotions worn literally and figuratively on the sleeve. It’s also a key colour trend for spring/summer 2015, with rich, vibrant tomato-like tones threaded through many of this season’s key collections. We’re not talking sleepily subtle reds here – no dark berry shades or innocuous burgundies allowed.

But that doesn’t mean red should only be worn by the brave. In fact, it’s relatively easy to harness the full potential of such a high impact colour. If crimson is a hot flame, then darker, safer shades are dying embers. And this SS15, it’s all about burning bright.

On The Runways

From a hint of carmine on shirting to scarlet three-piece suits, red was omnipresent on the SS15 runways.

But just because the hue is now everywhere doesn’t necessarily mean it has to be everywhere all at once. Many designers opted instead to use red in a more minimal, artfully wearable sense that can be easily translated to everyday use.

Balmain

This is the collection that answered the eternal question, “What’s black and white and red all over?”

At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing added red to duo-chromatic, geometric slabs of ghost white with black or navy, while jackets and jersey zip-ups in moto silhouettes were smartly disjointed with vibrant slashes of crimson.

The Balmain man is a very French sort of rockstar; instead of Cobain-esque plaids, outerwear was paired with crisp stripes – of both the ‘go faster’ and Breton variety.

This edginess was complemented by on-trend sportswear elements, with biker jackets teamed with red panelled jersey trousers. It’s the kind of outfit that a young Evel Knievel might wear to Cap d’Antibes:

Lanvin

Lanvin’s spring/summer 2015 showcase

5 Underused Menswear Colours

In Full Colour

Sid Mashburn once said about a man’s wardrobe: “Guys don’t need a lot of options, they just need the right options.” And for the most part, we’re inclined to agree.

Contrary to what every chart-topping rapper would have you believe, it’s the simple, timelessly stylish pieces that make you stand out. Which is why most guys could have a wardrobe stocked with as little as thirty items and still be considered better dressed than 90 per cent of the population.

But Mr Mashburn’s theory doesn’t really stand up when applied to colour. Here, most men tend to be a little too reserved and conservative. We all know how relatively easy it is to pull off neutral looks made up of black, white, navy and grey, but if you really want to stand out from the sartorial pack, you’ve got to start embracing bolder hues.

Of course, it’s not easy (not that anything worth doing ever was), and the brighter end of the spectrum can be overwhelming, but introducing a welcome shot of colour isn’t as complicated as you might think.

1. Pink

Still hung up on pink supposedly being for girls? Then consider this: up until the end of the 19th century pink was – in the Western world – actually thought of as a masculine hue. Connotations of girlishness gradually came in the early 20th century as marketers repositioned pink as a feminine colour.

Whether dusty and soft or bold and bright, pink pairs well with plenty of colours you probably already have in your wardrobe – including brown, beige, blue, white and darker shades of green, such as olive.

However, wearing pink does come with its caveats. If you have fair skin, you should be wary of wearing too much of the hue close to your face as it can wash your complexion out. If this is the case, try balancing it with darker colours – for example, a pink dress shirt with a navy blazer and blue tie. Another option is to try a bolder, richer tone of pink instead.

An Oxford shirt is arguably the most versatile piece you can opt for in pink, as it teams well with everything from a brown tweed blazer and indigo jeans to a grey suit. Pink chinos or shorts are another great addition to your summer wardrobe, while pink socks can add the perfect pop to an otherwise understated outfit.

Colour Pairing Guidelines

These guidelines have been derived from the standard colour wheel. We will also offer our own recommended combinations.

Similar Colours (Easiest To Pair): Reds and mauve pinks.

Contrasting Colours (Harder To Pair): Blue violets and yellow greens.

Complementary Colours (Hardest To Pair): Blue greens.

Recommended: Brown, beige and white, along with darker shades of green and blue.

Pink Lookbook Inspiration

Key Pieces

Men’s Watch-Buying Guide

Do You Have the Time?

The luxury watch industry is a curious creature. In Switzerland, home to almost every high-end brand that matters, it was worth over £14 billion to the national economy in 2013 alone. That’s despite the fact that anyone who can afford one likely has a much more accurate timekeeper in their pocket – which can also send emails.

Even though the manufacturers that populate Lake Geneva make claims about the mechanical accuracy of their products, a luxury watch is not about telling the time. At least, not primarily. Because unlike anything else that proclaims its technical innovations so proudly, watchmaking is one of the few industries in which the more advanced the product is, the less it costs.

Which Type Is Right for Me?

This really depends on why you want a watch in the first place. If you don’t have a fascination with timekeeping – nor at least a grand going spare – then a mechanical watch probably isn’t for you. The expertise required for building mechanical styles means they’re far more expensive and often demand more care than their quartz cousins.

To put things into perspective: an Omega Speedmaster will put a £4,100 hole in your pocket and keep worse time than a £20 Casio. So, if all you need is something to measure your rest periods in the gym or get you to work on time, look to Japan, not Switzerland.

AN OMEGA SPEEDMASTER LOOKS BEAUTIFUL, BUT ACTUALLY KEEPS WORSE TIME THAN A £20 CASIO

Not that more zeros always reflect higher quality.

The Right HAIRCUT For Your Face Shape

The Right Haircut For You

There’s nothing worse than getting your haircut and realising it doesn’t suit your face shape. Hair trends change all the time, yet the majority of styles are not ‘one size fits all’ – some WILL look better with different face shapes, therefore it’s extremely important to take this into account when choosing your next haircut.

Each person is different and our face shapes vary massively. Some men will have to take their face shape into account more than others; the majority will want to create the impression of a squarer face shape, which is both incredibly masculine and widely recognised as the most pleasing to the eye.

To achieve this ideal shape, long faces need shortening, wide faces need lengthening and angular faces would require a softer finished haircut.

Many customers come into the salon well prepared, with pictures or ideas about how they would like their hair. However, as a stylist, I find it’s vital that you consider an individual’s face shape when doing a consultation.

I would always suggest asking your stylist if they think the haircut you have chosen will suit your face shape – if they don’t think it will, ask how you can alter the style to make it work for you.

A haircut is personal and should be created to suit your face shape and hair type, as well as your image and personality. With this in mind, today I will break down the most prominent face shapes that are seen on male clients, and provide some general advice/guidelines as to hairstyles that suit each…

Oval Face Shape

Considered to be the ideal face shape for women, but not so much for men, an oval face generally suits any hairstyle in any shape or length, because it is proportionally well-balanced. So not only can you pull off any type of sunglasses you like, but you also have the freedom to experiment with your haircut. Some people have all the luck.

The only thing to avoid is a full length fringe, as this can make the face appear rounder. An oval head shape allows maximum versatility, allowing the hair to be styled onto or off the face and can be worn long or short.

Example Styles

Square Face Shape

A guy with a square face