Heads up, gentlemen – if you’re skimming through this article, then for the sake of your personal style and everyone else’s eyesight, read this paragraph carefully as most guys that try their hand at short-sleeved shirts end up getting the fit woefully wrong.
“When it comes to fit, think well-cut and not baggy,” says Sam Kershaw. “Sleeves should fall at least a few centimetres above the elbows and shouldn’t flap about like a pair of wings.”
You need to aim for something that’s slim but not tight. A short-sleeved shirt should flatter your form (as with any other casual or formal shirt) but not tightly hug your biceps, chest or neck. Boxier cuts (not sloppily oversized, mind) work too, but only if your wardrobe’s more Jil Sander than J.Crew.
Style
Equally important as sound fit is choosing the right style of short-sleeved shirt. For some unknown reason, many brands seem to treat this garment as a blank canvas on which to carry out their most bizarre, nightmarishly ugly creative experiments – think bad madras, garish slogans and lightning bolt motifs.
Needless to say, these are best sidestepped in favour of plain styles, contemporary florals, abstract camo and geometric prints. Understated neutral designs and subtle prints work well for teaming with classic looks made up of, say, chinos, boat shoes or sandals and a lightweight blazer. Louder prints and bolder block-colour styles, on the other hand, work best as the focal point of an otherwise pared-back look.
Details
Like their longer-sleeved counterparts, short-sleeved shirts can come equipped with a whole manner of different details, each with its own aesthetic advantages.
Rolled sleeves (with or without a button fastening) are a classic and look best on neutral or plain styles where their inclusion lends an otherwise fairly banal shirt a bit of interest.
Chest pockets are worth looking out for, too, but it’s probably best to avoid contrast pockets if you want keep your aesthetic timeless and sophisticated. If you’re looking to add a point of contrast, opt for something like a contrast placket or cuff instead.
For something with a slightly sportier feel, keep an eye out for styles with notched sleeves, similar to what you would find on a polo shirt.
How To Wear It
The key to wearing a short-sleeved shirt well is keeping the term ‘smart-casual’ front and centre. That means understanding that this wardrobe essential simply doesn’t sit well with other firmly casual pieces like distressed jeans or joggers. It’s not that it’s an out and out no-no, but it’s definitely tricky to get right.
For a fail-safe ensemble, team with chinos or smart trousers (or tailored shorts in warmer climes) and summer-ready footwear like boat shoes, sandals, loafers or minimal trainers.
Never tuck in. Never accessorise with a pocket square. And only wear open over a T-shirt if you’re an avid skateboarder. Button to the top if you want to look especially sharp, or leave one or two undone for a more relaxed effect.
And finally, as Kershaw notes: “never wear a short-sleeved shirt with a tie or any sort of neckwear, unless you actually are at the controls of a jumbo jet.”
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